film diaries: copenhagen


morning: waking up sleepy in a cozy room lit by the washed grey morning light. we rolled out of bed and lazily perused the internet for breakfast suggestions. we ended up at a place by the name of bervar’s, and stole away to a cushioned place by the window and ordered a breakfast plate and lattes that came in pale blue ceramics. after filling up on bread and cheeses, fruit, museli and skyr we ventured down the road to the nørrebrogade flea market, a local market set up against the pastel yellow wall of the assistens kirkegård. I left with a few treasures, including a golden silky slip dress, a vintage clock, a tin with a gorgeous floral detail and a sweet hummingbird, and excitedly failed to bargain with the sellers when they named their price for my finds. the wrought iron gates of the assistens kirkegård, perhaps the most notable danish cemetary, stood at the end of the  market. instead of walking back the way we came, we found our way through the winding lushness of the resting place of famous danes such as hans christian andersen, and marveled at the peacefulness of it. there was a gentle rustling of the cool wind in the trees, the kind that leaves your cheeks pink and your face cool to the touch. I remember saying to Isaac that it was very possibly the most serene place I’d ever been to in my life.





afternoon: we made our way back into the center of town, stopping at the torvehallerne (a food and goods market) to peruse the stalls of flowers, fruits, and partake in a sampling of korean foods. after tasting a variety of deliciously cooked mushrooms, kimchi, and other delights, we attempted to plan out the rest of our day. the sunlight was soft and prevented us from feeling as if we were going to freeze and the quietness of the city was a welcomed change from the bustling center of amsterdam, where we spend the majority of our days. after veering off onto a large boulevard, we ended up at the rosenborg castle, the great danish palace of the 17th and 18th centuries. from the outside it looks quite small, but it was filled to the brim with gorgeous royal relics, including the crown jewels of the renaissance king. the gorgeous spindled towers, weathered brick facade, and sweeping gardens of the castle added to the fairytale essence that the city itself had already instilled in us.

after exploring the palace and gardens, we headed for another notable landmark, the rundetaarn, an astrological tower built in the 17th century with sweeping (and windy) views of the city. we laughed at the amount of effort required to climb the equestrian staircase, and I giggled at all the children attempting to hide from their parents in the small corridors built into the walls. at the top of the tower, we marveled at the conflicting quaintness and vastness of the cityscape, and peeked into the small astrological tower which is still in use today. the aches and pains of tourism were definitely getting to us, so we decided to head back to our apartment for the rest of the afternoon. there, we showered off the late afternoon chill and cozied up in bed to take a nap. that evening, I dressed up in my new slip and a comfy sweater and we walked through the winter darkness and a bit of rain to dinner. after a few glasses of wine and beer to warm us up, we ended up in a smoky jazz club (apparently the jazz scene is big in copenhagen). we stayed there and sipped beers and stole kisses until 1:30am, when we decided that if we wanted our next day to be even slightly productive, then we should get some sleep.








afternoon: we woke up late and skipped breakfast, in a vain attempt to make it to the tivoli gardens before the crowds set in. after a sleepy morning, we spent the better part of the early afternoon being whirled around on the rides and sipping cappuccinos and picking at pastries inside the park. outside of the train station, we grabbed the bus heading towards christiania. there, we walked through the commune of brightly colored houses and again marveled at the quiet that seemed to characterize the city. the grey clouds made us wary of the weather, so we stopped into a cozy vegetarian restaurant and hid out from the rain with bowls of hearty soup and milky chai. having checked off the better part of our to-do list, we decided to take the 45 minute walk to the nyhaven harbor. we walked along the canals and amongst the rows of colored houses and sails, and down the coastline toward  the amalienborg palace, the home of the danish royal family. with a few scarce hours left of daylight, we hurried to den lille havfrue, the sculpture of hans christian andersen’s the little mermaid, which has been a tourist attraction since 1913.









evening: by the time we had walked back into the center it had gotten dark, and with dying phones and little clue of where to find an inexpensive dinner, we settled on grocery store baguette and herb & cheese spread, and followed google maps to the grand teatret, a beautiful movie theatre which opened in the early 20th century in hopes that they showed films in english. in a stroke of luck, the next movie playing was cafe society, the new woody allen film. we bought our tickets and promptly settled into the crushed velvet seats of the theatre, which I now declare as my favorite movie theatre in the world. for the next two hours we were taken away into the stylized dream that characterizes woody allen movies, and found ourselves incredibly sleepy when the film ended. after a few wrong turns on our way home, we finally were able to shower, crawl into bed, and fall asleep to catch a few hours of rest before our early morning flight back to amsterdam.





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